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Driving up the serpentine lane to Auberge du Jeu de Paume, one almost expects 18th-century French gentry to gallop past into the surrounding 20,000-acre forest. This Chantilly estate was long an aristocratic playground. The unprecedented compound consists of the Chateau de Chantilly, the Great Stables (which now houses an equine museum), the racetrack and the resplendent property. The Auberge’s 92 rooms and suites combine period embellishments with modern comforts; there is a relaxing spa and wide range of activities to fill...